Food Review: Between Breads

March 28, 2013 7:53 am by

Between Breads, Bandra’s new sandwich joint, comes across as a modern day re-imagining of the Chock’lit Shoppe, the fictional hangout of the characters in Archie comics. There may not be a pot-bellied Pop Tate-like figure at the helm, or a jukebox, but there are plenty of burgers, hot dogs, milkshakes and sodas on the menu, in addition to two enormous 3D installations of subway sandwiches that cover the walls of the restaurant, which has been designed by The Busride studio. The design team has cannily chosen an appetite-whetting palette for the 300 square feet space – ketchup red for the tables, mustard yellow for the menu board, and flour white for the swiveling stools.

Entrust your order to one of the restaurant’s three owners, Reuben Borah, Paresh Chhabria, or Ayank Verma, and you’re likely to leave as a happy customer. For pork and beef adoring carnivores, they recommend the ten-ounce bacon cheeseburger (Rs309), a delicious, diet-defying piece of work. The burger came with crisp rashers, a thick beef patty stuffed with melting Gouda, as well as onion rings, a tomato slice and gherkins enclosed within a soft BBQ sauce-slathered bun. The toasted multi-grain baguette used in the Philly chicken and cheese sandwich (Rs229) wasn’t as much of a team player as the burger bun. Despite the sandwich being generously stuffed with roasted bell peppers, and chicken strips coated in a sweet and tangy mustard-based BBQ sauce, the taste of the grainy bread overwhelmed that of the other elements. The hard-crusted baguette was also used in the veggie pesto sandwich (Rs199), which suffered from a mix of too many strongly flavoured ingredients such as roasted peppers, grilled eggplant and basil pesto. Our pick of the veggie burgers was the carb-loaded jalapeno popper burger made up of a deep-fried potato patty and cheese-oozing poppers.

Of their beverages, the pulpy mango milkshake (Rs119) wasn’t a patch on the incredibly smooth coffee and banana milkshake (Rs119), which successfully married our two favourite breakfast items, and has become our new favourite way to start the day. The coffee wasn’t so strong as to get us wired and the proportion of banana used was just right for it to not be the dominating flavour. Most of the offerings at Between Breads are obscenely calorie-laden. For instance, we wiped clean the basket of bacon fries (Rs99), which were drizzled with bacon oil and garnished with crisp shards of the cured meat, knowing full well that it probably cost us a week’s worth of working out. However, the owners make no apologies for their guilt-inducing fare. The guilt is yours alone to feel.

All prices are inclusive of taxes.