MB Maps: Mohammed Ali Road

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The month of Ramzan (Monday, August 1 to Monday, August 29 this year) offers an invitation to food tourists that’s irresistible—and incomplete. There’s a date and time, but no address. Where, exactly, is the party?

For those who’ve been over (but not on) Mohammed Ali road, it’s hard to picture the blighted stretch underneath as an all-night, kilometre-long buffet. What’s even harder is finding your way to where the meat is unless you know where you’re headed.

Gustation is concentrated in two zones: Bohri Mohalla and Minara Masjid.

Bohri Mohalla is the quieter of the two, and packs up by midnight. From Mohammed Ali road, look for the bright orange sign of Saifee Ambulance on the west side. It’s not rare to see BMWs parked alongside the charcoal grills.

Minara Masjid’s vertiginous green minarets are hard to miss. I. M. Merchant road will, as Eid approaches, overflow with bodies like a local train. Be prepared to hover for seats. It makes a great last stop, as the many varieties of mithai will please even the sweetest tooth.

Insomniac adventurers can follow the action all the way up to (or down from) Nagpada Junction. Distances are walkable and even the narrowest streets are floodlit. Only the sunrise will stop you from trying it all.

Sarvi Seekh kebab sells out fast; paya (Rs38) served hot all night long. 184/196 Dimtimkar Road, Nagpada Junction. 6608 6347.

Chand Harissa Hyderabadi khichda, Rs30 (from 4pm); tender mutton seekh, Rs25. Until 1am.YMCA basketball court, Mastan Talao.

Nawab Seekh Kebab Corner Seekh with deep-fried parathas, Rs40 per plate, until 3am.Corner of M. S. Ali (Grant) & Duncan Roads, behind Do Tanki police chowky. 99679 87561.

Zaika Juicy tangdi kebab Rs50, until 3am. M. S. Ali (Grant) Road at J.J. Junction. 98212 06285.

National Dry Fruit Stores Dates! “Ayurvedic” herb-stuffed (Rs500/kg) to Basra (Rs100/kg); saffron from Rs160/g. Shop No. 3, M. S. Ali (Grant) Road. at J. J. Junction. 99202 33886.

H. M. Jalil Cold Drink & Juice Centre Year-round source for Swadeshi teetotaler soda Sosyo. 79/83, R. C. Wala Building, corner of Raudat Tahera Street & Khara Tank Road. 2346 2237.

Indian Hotel All-purpose tava joint, from naan-chop (Rs18) to bheja (Rs120). 92/96, Shop No. 1/2, Khara Tank Road. 2346 0687.

Bar-B-Que Corner Takes down its sign and sigdi by 11.30pm, so hurry for kheeri and kaleji (Rs20). Khara Tank Road.

Tawakkal Sweets Malai in many flavours (Rs600/kg) complements a perfect malpuwa. 26, Khara Tank Road. 2346 6360.

Jilani Fast Food Corner Bada baida from Rs30. Shop No. 6, Sana Manzil, 92/95, Pakmodia Street.

Idris Colddrink Sharbat delights like vari yalli (saunf), Rs10. 101, Pakmodia Street. 98202 19035.

Surti 12 Handi Gulam Mustafa’s family recipe from Surat turns a nihari (stew) into a meal, Rs80. 10pm–4am. 12, Gujar Street.

KGN Juice Thick anjeer shake Rs25. Corner of Gujar Street.

Noor Mohammedi Hotel Live goats, Husain original on display; nalli nihari Rs60. 179, Wazir Building, Abdul Hakim Chowk. 2345 6008.

Shalimar Cold Drinks Falooda from Rs22. S.V.P. Road, around corner from Shalimar. 2345 6632.

Suleiman Usman Mithaiwala Classic firni Rs25, flavoured Rs32–Rs34; lurid halwas. 175, I. M. Merchant Road, Minara Masjid. 2346 5059.

Hindustan Hotel Chota kebabs and lamba pav. 2347 6241.

Burhanpur Jalebi Centre Churns out hot, crisp mawa jalebis, Rs160/kg. 27/74, Memonwada Road. 98193 12072.

Hussein The twinkle in his eye brings us back. Mini malpuwa Rs10. In front of Chinese n Grill.

Halwa-Paratha Stall Rs80/kg.