Download The (Updated) Mumbai Boss Mohammed Ali Road Map

July 26, 2013 7:40 am by


Consider a paradox. The occasion of Ramzan, which ends on Wednesday, August 7, enjoins the devout to avoid sensuous pleasures. Distractions of all varieties are forbidden. Hence the perfunctory Sallu blockbuster comes out only with the sheer korma on Eid. Yet this communal focus of attention generates such a frenzy of activity each evening as to erupt into a riotous, month-long carnival across the bylanes of Bhendi Bazaar.

A brief guide to how to best use the map
• For rolls and the full range of offal (kidneys and brain on the tawa, liver and udder on the sigdi) in a leisurely ambience, head first to the cluster of streetside tables in Bohri Mohalla, in the Saifee Ambulance Lane.

• Trek north from Grant Road for more unusual fare, like Hyderabadi khichda and Irani seekh kebab. Or stroll south past floodlit shopping stalls—on your way, don’t forget to sample Noor Mohammedi Hotel’s majestic nalli nihari—toward Minara Masjid, where you can jostle your way between caged quails and dangling kebabs.

• Visit early and often. As Eid approaches, the crowd grows larger and hungrier. The truth is that nearly every establishment marked on our map of Mohammed Ali Road and environs operates year-round, if not to the same late hour. But let’s face it, Ramzan is the time to revel, together, in the city’s fleshly pleasures.