Food Review: Greko

June 14, 2013 10:44 am by

In the strip of food joints located just off Carter Road, few places have outlived the Café Coffee Day outlet, which has weathered soaring rents, fickle customers, and even a few blows by the BMC. We’re hoping that luck radiates to Greko, a new take-away joint that has opened in place of Cuppa Joe, right next door to CCD.

The place doesn’t have any seating or (gasp!) dessert but this hasn’t discouraged the college crowd that typically hangs out at Carter Road from thronging the take-away joint. This is probably because Greko serves well-priced and (mostly) meaty Greek fast food staples such as gyros (meat roasted on a spit and commonly served in pita as a roll) and souvlaki (skewered meat). Salads, mezze platters, falafel rolls and vegetable souvlaki make up the vegetarian options. Most of the items on the menu contain a combination of hummus, hot sauce, lettuce, tomatoes, onions, feta, or Caesar salad dressing. But it’s what gets left out or added on that makes each dish distinctive.

The chicken and bacon pita gyro (Rs180) for instance was starkly different from the Athenian roll (Rs210), but almost identical in flavour to the chicken gyro Caesar salad (Rs200). The chicken and bacon gyro was a roll of warm, fluffy pita heaving with lettuce, onion, and spit-churned shreds of chicken lavished with tzatziki (a versatile yoghurt, cucumber, garlic and olive oil-based spread), creamy Caesar salad dressing, and bright orange squirts of hot chilli sauce. The smokiness from the garnish of bacon made it quite different but no less flavourful than the Athenian, a pita roll padded with chicken gryo and spiced chicken souvlaki smothered in a tangy peppery sauce. The chicken gyro Caesar salad tasted pretty much the same as the chicken and bacon gyro, but without the pita.

Greko’s rolls are so loaded with meat, carbs and condiments that you can easily make a meal of any one dish. Vegetarians should pick the pitaroudia (Rs140), a falafel wrap with tahini, tzatziki, and their in-house hot sauce, which they will add on request. The defining dishes of our gut-busting meal however were Greko’s moussaka (Rs270), a wonderfully balanced slab of minced and spiced beef, baked potatoes, and roasted aubergines capped by a golden brown layer of baked béchamel sauce; and the fries with feta (Rs110), a diet-killing but blissful union of starch, cheese and a light herb and lemon vinaigrette deployed to cut through the fat. There was but one losing dish, their skimpy fattoush salad (Rs170) salad with only a few stray grains of the promised cous cous.

All prices are inclusive of taxes. This review was conducted anonymously.