Food Review: Tandoori Kitchen
Right next door to Papa Pancho in Pali Naka, is Tandoori Kitchen, a ten-day old casual dining Indian restaurant, which unlike its colourful neighbour with its kitschy dhaba decor, is a plain looking establishment with bare walls and furniture befitting canteens. While Papa Pancho specialises in Punjabi fare and Tandoori Kitchen in Awadhi cuisine, there are overlaps in both menus in terms of the kebabs and basic vegetarian and non-vegetarian curries on offer. On Sundays however, Tandoori Kitchen serves Sindhi specialties such as daal-pakwan, seyal mani and Sindhi mutton, dishes you won’t find on Papa Pancho’s menu.
From Tandoori Kitchen’s selection of kebabs, the murgh kaali mirch and macchi tikka rival those at both Kareem’s and Khane Khas. Flecks of pepper were mixed into a creamy, malai tikka-like marinade for the remarkably tender chicken, while the lightly charred, melt-in-your-mouth fish tikkas were tossed in a tangy tandoori marinade that tasted just as good. The cook nailed the balance of masalas in the mutton galouti kebab, a mainstay of Lucknowi cuisine, typically prepared with minced lamb. The kebabs were soft and a tad spicy, just as we like them.
The tandoori chicken sandwich at Tandoori Kitchen however, was not what we imagined it would be. Chicken paratha would be a more appropriate description of the dish, which disappointed us. There was too much of the thick lachha paratha and very little of the spicy chicken filling. Our butter chicken gravy had a good balance of sweet, spicy and tangy, but we were put off by the film of butter over its surface. We loved the dal makhani, which was cooked with a perceptible amount of cream, making it an indulgence best reserved for the day you allow yourself such guilty pleasures.
We thought it fitting to round off a rich meal with an equally rich dessert. The gulab jamuns were soft to the core and if, like us, you’re not a big fan of the cloyingly sweet rose syrup that accompanies the dessert, you can ask them to leave it out as the jamuns are cooked separately. According to Tandoori Kitchen’s takeaway menu, the city will soon have over ten new outlets, including ones in Colaba, Nariman Point, Dadar, Lower Parel, Malad and Borivali. If they can maintain the quality of the food along with the rapid expansion, there’s no reason not to add it to the list of restaurants you have on speed-dial.
A meal for two costs approximately Rs1,000. This review was conducted anonymously.